Criolla & País: the 500-year comeback
Argentina's oldest vines, once an embarrassment, now lead one of the most exciting grassroots movements in South American wine.
Every other grape in these guides arrived in Argentina as an immigrant with a French or Italian passport. The Criolla family got here first — almost five centuries ago — and then spent most of modern history being treated as an embarrassment. Today that story is being rewritten. The country's oldest vines are at the heart of one of the most exciting grassroots movements in South American wine, and the wines they make are unlike anything else on a list.
What's inside
01The original grape
The grape that built South American wine: Criolla arrived with Spanish missionaries and is finally being taken seriously again.
Read Step 1 →The modern revival
Find it where the old vines grow.
Read Step 2 →How to find it
Serve Criolla lightly chilled and treat it like the easygoing crowd-pleaser it is.
Read Step 3 →Quick answers
What is Criolla wine?
Criolla refers to a family of heritage grapes brought to Argentina by Spanish settlers in the 16th century. They make pale, fresh, juicy wines that sit between rosé and light red, and are at the centre of a modern revival of old-vine, low-intervention Argentine wine.
Is Criolla Chica the same as País?
Yes — it is the same grape, known as Listán Prieto in Spain, País in Chile, Mission in California and Criolla Chica in Argentina. It was one of the first wine grapes in the Americas and was the dominant variety for about 300 years.
Why was Criolla looked down on?
For most of the last century it was used for cheap, high-yield bulk and jug wine, so it was seen as low quality and often ripped out in favour of premium Malbec. Winemakers have since rediscovered its old vines and heritage value.
Why was Criolla Chica only recognised as a quality grape in 2024?
It had long been classified as a pink grape, forcing producers to label it as rosé even when making a light red, and barring it from quality GI appellations. In 2024 Argentina's National Viticulture Institute reclassified it as a quality red grape — nearly 500 years after it arrived.
What does Criolla taste like and what pairs with it?
Expect a pale colour, red-berry and rose-petal aromas, bright acidity and a light, juicy body, sometimes with fine tannin from old vines. Serve it lightly chilled with seafood, ceviche, charcuterie, soft cheeses and summer salads.